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By Renovation Guide HQ · Updated November 2, 2026
Updated: November 2026
Quick Answer
A new deck costs $8,322 on average nationally, with most homeowners paying $4,339 to $12,653. Expect $25 to $55 per square foot installed for pressure-treated wood and $35 to $80 for composite. A standard 16 by 20 foot deck takes 1 to 3 weeks to build.
This guide is part of our Roofing and Exterior cluster. For the biggest exterior spend of all, start with our pillar guide: Roof Replacement Cost in 2026. The roof protects the house; the deck is where you actually live outside it.
Cost Table: Wood vs. Composite, With Timelines
| Material | Per Sq Ft Installed | Typical Total | Timeline | Lifespan | Labor vs. Materials |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pressure-treated wood | $25 to $55 | $4,339 to $12,653 | 1 to 2 weeks (planning estimate) | 15 to 20 years (planning estimate) | About 50 percent labor, 50 percent materials (planning estimate) |
| Cedar or redwood | $30 to $55 | $8,000 to $17,500 (planning estimate) | 1 to 2 weeks (planning estimate) | 20 to 25 years (planning estimate) | About 50 percent labor, 50 percent materials (planning estimate) |
| Composite, entry to mid-range | $35 to $60 | $11,000 to $19,000 (planning estimate) | 1 to 3 weeks (planning estimate) | 25 to 30 years (planning estimate) | About 45 percent labor, 55 percent materials (planning estimate) |
| Composite, premium or PVC | $45 to $80 | $14,500 to $25,500 (planning estimate) | 2 to 3 weeks (planning estimate) | 30 years or more (planning estimate) | About 40 percent labor, 60 percent materials (planning estimate) |
One fact surprises most first-time builders: the frame underneath is pressure-treated lumber either way. The price gap between wood and composite is almost entirely the boards you walk on and the railing you lean on, not the structure underneath. A 16 by 20 foot deck runs $8,000 to $17,500 in pressure-treated wood or $14,500 to $25,500 in composite, materials and labor combined. Angi puts deck construction at $30 to $60 per square foot overall, and permit fees at $230 to $500.
Cost by Size
| Size | Square Feet | Pressure-Treated Wood | Composite |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 by 10 feet | 100 | $2,500 to $5,500 (planning estimate) | $3,500 to $8,000 (planning estimate) |
| 12 by 12 feet | 144 | $3,500 to $8,000 (planning estimate) | $5,000 to $11,500 (planning estimate) |
| 12 by 16 feet | 192 | $5,000 to $10,500 (planning estimate) | $6,500 to $15,500 (planning estimate) |
| 16 by 20 feet | 320 | $8,000 to $17,500 | $14,500 to $25,500 |
| 20 by 20 feet | 400 | $10,000 to $22,000 (planning estimate) | $18,000 to $32,000 (planning estimate) |
Worked Budget Example: A 16 by 20 Foot Deck, 320 Square Feet
Take a ground-level deck, 16 by 20 feet, attached to the house on one side, with a railing on the other three sides and one flight of stairs to grade. Here is what each material looks like, line by line.
Pressure-treated wood at $35 per square foot: $11,200 total (planning estimate)
| Line Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Framing lumber, footings, and hardware | $1,900 (planning estimate) |
| Pressure-treated decking boards | $2,100 (planning estimate) |
| Wood railing, about 52 linear feet | $1,100 (planning estimate) |
| Stairs, one flight | $500 (planning estimate) |
| Fasteners and miscellaneous hardware | $300 (planning estimate) |
| Installation labor | $4,400 (planning estimate) |
| Permit | $400 (planning estimate) |
| First stain and seal coat | $500 (planning estimate) |
| Total | $11,200 (planning estimate) |
The math checks out: $1,900 plus $2,100 is $4,000; plus $1,100 is $5,100; plus $500 is $5,600; plus $300 is $5,900; plus $4,400 is $10,300; plus $400 is $10,700; plus $500 is $11,200.
Composite at $55 per square foot: $17,600 total (planning estimate)
| Line Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Framing lumber, footings, and hardware | $1,900 (planning estimate) |
| Composite decking boards | $5,200 (planning estimate) |
| Composite railing, about 52 linear feet | $2,400 (planning estimate) |
| Stairs, one flight | $800 (planning estimate) |
| Hidden fasteners and clips | $700 (planning estimate) |
| Installation labor | $5,900 (planning estimate) |
| Permit | $400 (planning estimate) |
| Cleanup and miscellaneous | $300 (planning estimate) |
| Total | $17,600 (planning estimate) |
The math checks out: $1,900 plus $5,200 is $7,100; plus $2,400 is $9,500; plus $800 is $10,300; plus $700 is $11,000; plus $5,900 is $16,900; plus $400 is $17,300; plus $300 is $17,600. The day-one gap is $6,400 (planning estimate). Whether that gap pays off is answered by the 20-year math below.
What $5,000, $12,000, and $25,000 Actually Buy
$5,000 buys a small ground-level pressure-treated deck, roughly 10 by 12 feet, with a basic wood railing and simple stairs. It is a clean, usable outdoor floor, best for a tight budget or a first deck on a starter home.
$12,000 buys a mid-size pressure-treated deck or a small composite deck, with a proper railing and one stair flight. This is the sweet spot for most homeowners: a real outdoor living space without the premium price tag.
$25,000 buys a large composite or PVC deck, roughly 16 by 20 feet or bigger, with a matching composite railing, wide stairs, and possibly lighting or a second level. You pay roughly double the cheapest wood job, but you get the longest life and the lowest upkeep.
The 20-Year Math: Wood Twice vs. Composite Once
Comparing only the first invoice misleads. A wood deck at $11,200 that needs restaining every 2 to 3 years at $500 to $900 a time (planning estimate) costs roughly $4,000 to $6,000 in upkeep over 20 years (planning estimate), plus board replacements as it ages. A composite deck at $17,600 needs only annual cleaning, roughly $100 to $200 a year if you hire it out (planning estimate), or near zero if you wash it yourself. Over 20 years, the wood deck’s total lands close to $15,000 to $17,000 (planning estimate), nearly matching composite, while the composite deck is still mid-life and the wood deck is nearing replacement. Wood still wins on cash today and for short stays: if you sell within 10 years, you never pay the second half of wood’s upkeep, and the lower upfront cost matters more. Resale reinforces the picture: the 2025 Cost vs. Value Report prices a 16 by 20 wood deck at $18,263 nationally, recouping 94.9 percent, and the composite version at $25,096, recouping 88.5 percent. Wood wins on percentage recouped; composite wins on dollars kept, because it lasts longer.
Regional Differences
The figures below are illustrative planning estimates, not quotes. Lumber prices are fairly national, but labor is not, and labor is about half the bill. Expect the highest totals in the Northeast and on the West Coast, where a mid-range job can run 20 to 40 percent above the national average. The Midwest tracks close to the average. The South and rural markets often run 10 to 20 percent below it. Climate moves the material choice, not just the price: wet climates punish unsealed wood, hot southern sun fades and heats dark composite boards, and freeze-thaw country demands footings dug below the frost line. Get three local quotes with identical scope, because a quote that skips the railing or the stairs is not comparable to one that includes them.
7 Cost Factors With Dollar Impact
1. Size. Every extra 100 square feet adds $2,500 to $5,500 for wood and $3,500 to $8,000 for composite (planning estimates). Bigger is cheaper per square foot, because footings and stairs do not scale with area.
2. Height and elevation. A second-story or steeply sloped deck adds 25 to 40 percent to the total (planning estimate) in taller posts, bracing, scaffolding, and longer stairs. Ground-level decks are always the cheapest shape to build.
3. Railing. Railing is the biggest hidden swing. Wood railing runs $15 to $30 per linear foot installed, composite or aluminum $40 to $80, and cable rail $80 to $130 (planning estimates). A 52-foot railing run can therefore swing a quote by $1,000 to $5,000 (planning estimate) on its own.
4. Stairs. Each flight of stairs adds $500 to $2,000 (planning estimate), more for wide, multi-landing, or curved stairs. Multi-level decks multiply this fast.
5. Old deck removal. Demolition and haul-away of an old deck adds $5 to $15 per square foot (planning estimate). Rotten framing or failed footings found underneath add more.
6. Footings and soil. Standard concrete footings are included in most quotes, but rocky soil, a high water table, or helical piles for a raised deck add $500 to $2,500 (planning estimate).
7. Extras. Built-in benches add $500 to $1,500 each, deck lighting adds $500 to $2,000, and a pergola or roof cover adds $3,000 to $10,000 (planning estimates). Price these separately so they do not quietly double the deck budget.
DIY vs. Pro
| Factor | Wood DIY | Composite DIY | Professional |
|---|---|---|---|
| Skill level, 1 to 5 | 3, confident DIYer | 4, advanced DIYer | Licensed deck builder |
| Tools needed | Circular saw, drill, level, post-hole digger, ladder | Same, plus manufacturer-specific hidden fastener tools | Included in the quote |
| Time for a 16 by 20 deck | 3 to 5 weekends with a helper (planning estimate) | 4 to 6 weekends with a helper (planning estimate) | 1 to 3 weeks |
| Savings | Up to 50 percent of the total (planning estimate), mostly labor | Up to 45 percent of the total (planning estimate), mostly labor | None, but includes warranty and code compliance |
| Legal and permit limits | Most jurisdictions allow homeowner decks with a permit | Same, but warranty rules require exact joist spacing and fasteners | Contractor pulls the permit and carries liability and workers’ compensation |
A ground-level wood deck is one of the most DIY-friendly builds: the cuts are simple, mistakes are cheap to fix, and the framing is forgiving. Composite is harder: boards must be gapped exactly to the manufacturer’s spec, joist spacing is tighter, and a fastening mistake can void the warranty. Elevated decks, ledger attachments to the house, and any electrical work for lighting belong to licensed pros. A failed ledger connection is how decks collapse, so never guess at flashing and bolting. If you DIY, work with a partner, never frame alone on a ladder, and get the footing inspection before you pour concrete.
Step-by-Step: How a Deck Build Runs
Step 1: Design and permit, 1 to 2 weeks. Measure, sketch the layout, pick materials, and submit drawings. The permit itself typically takes 1 to 2 weeks to issue (planning estimate).
Step 2: Layout and footings, 1 to 2 days. Stake the footprint, dig footing holes below the frost line, and pour concrete. Inspection usually happens before framing starts.
Step 3: Framing, 2 to 4 days. Posts, beams, and joists go up, with the ledger board bolted and flashed to the house. This is the step that decides whether the deck is safe.
Step 4: Decking, 2 to 4 days. Boards go down from the house outward, with proper gaps for drainage and expansion. Composite takes longer because of hidden fasteners.
Step 5: Railing and stairs, 2 to 3 days. Posts, rails, balusters, and stair stringers are installed and squared. Guardrails are required on any deck more than 30 inches above grade.
Step 6: Trim, lighting, and extras, 1 to 2 days. Fascia boards, stair lighting, benches, and any built-ins finish the visible work.
Step 7: Stain or seal, 1 day, wood only. Wood decks get their first stain and seal coat after the lumber dries, usually 4 to 8 weeks after construction (planning estimate). Composite skips this step entirely.
Step 8: Final inspection and walk-through, half a day. The building inspector signs off where a permit was pulled, and you walk the deck with the builder checking rails, stairs, and board gaps.
Materials and Tools List
A complete deck system includes: concrete footings, pressure-treated posts, beams, and joists, decking boards, railing posts, rails, and balusters, stair stringers and treads, ledger flashing, joist hangers, and fasteners or hidden clips. For a small DIY wood deck you need: a circular saw, a drill and driver, a level, a chalk line, a post-hole digger, and a ladder. Rent, do not buy, the auger and the concrete mixer for a one-off job.
9 Mistakes Contractors See Too Often
1. Skipping the permit. An unpermitted deck can block a home sale and cost more to legalize than the permit ever would. Pull it before you dig.
2. Nailing the ledger instead of bolting it. Nails pull out; through-bolts and lag screws hold. A ledger failure is the most common cause of deck collapse.
3. No flashing behind the ledger. Water trapped behind an unflashed ledger rots the house rim joist invisibly for years. Flashing is cheap; rot repair is not.
4. Footings too shallow. Footings must sit below the local frost line or the deck heaves every winter. Ask your inspector for the local depth.
5. Wrong joist spacing for composite. Composite boards need tighter joist spacing than wood, often 12 inches on center instead of 16. Wider spacing voids warranties and feels spongy.
6. Butting boards tight. Decking boards need gaps for drainage and expansion. Tight boards trap water, cup, and rot from below.
7. Skipping the first stain. Pressure-treated lumber needs time to dry, then a stain and seal coat. Unsealed wood greys, cracks, and splinters within a season or two.
8. Railing gaps over 4 inches. Baluster spacing wider than 4 inches fails code and is a child safety hazard. Measure with a 4-inch ball test, not by eye.
9. Paying most of the money up front. A reasonable schedule is a deposit of 10 to 30 percent, progress payments tied to milestones, and final payment after inspection (planning estimate of standard practice). Full payment before work starts is a red flag.
Permits and Safety
Most US jurisdictions require a building permit for a new deck under the International Residential Code (IRC), especially any deck attached to the house or more than 30 inches above grade. Your contractor should pull the permit and schedule footing and final inspections. Guardrails must be at least 36 inches high, and balusters spaced so a 4-inch sphere cannot pass through. Work on homes built before 1978 must follow EPA Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) lead-safe practices when painted house surfaces are disturbed during ledger work, and siding materials installed before 1980 should be tested for asbestos before disturbance. On the safety side, ladder and scaffolding rules apply to all elevated deck work: stable footing, a spotter for tall work, and eye protection when cutting. Never stand on an unbraced frame, and never use a deck before the final inspection.
Hiring a Contractor: 6 Questions, Red Flags, License Checks
Ask every bidder these six questions: (1) Are you licensed and insured, and will you show certificates for both general liability and workers’ compensation? (2) Will you pull the permit and handle inspections? (3) How do you attach and flash the ledger, and what footing depth do you use here? (4) What joist spacing and fasteners does your composite warranty require? (5) What manufacturer and workmanship warranties do you offer, in writing? (6) Can you give three local references from jobs done more than a year ago? Red flags: cash-only pricing, pressure to sign today, no local address, a bid far below the others, and any request for full payment up front. Verify licensing through your state’s contractor license board website before signing: search for your state’s board by name, confirm the license is active, and check for complaints or disciplinary actions.
Financing a Deck Build
Most homeowners do not pay for a deck out of pocket, and several general options exist. A home equity line of credit (HELOC) offers flexible draws and interest-only payments during the draw period. A home equity loan gives a lump sum with fixed payments. A cash-out refinance replaces your mortgage with a larger one and takes the difference in cash, which only makes sense if current rates beat your existing rate. A personal loan requires no home equity but carries higher rates and shorter terms. This is general information, not financial advice, and no specific rates are quoted here because they change constantly. Compare at least two lenders and read the total cost, not just the monthly payment.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to build a deck in 2026?
The national average is $8,322, with most projects between $4,339 and $12,653. Size and material drive the final number more than anything else.
Is composite decking worth the extra cost over wood?
For homeowners staying 15 years or more, usually yes. The day-one gap of roughly $6,400 on a 16 by 20 deck (planning estimate) is offset by far lower upkeep and a longer life. For a short stay or a tight budget, wood is the smarter spend.
How long does a wood deck last?
Pressure-treated wood typically lasts 15 to 20 years with regular staining and sealing (planning estimate). Cedar lasts a little longer, but only with the same maintenance.
How long does a composite deck last?
Composite typically lasts 25 to 30 years or more with only annual cleaning (planning estimate). The boards outlast wood by a decade, and they never need staining.
Do I need a permit to build a deck?
Usually yes. Most jurisdictions require a permit for an attached deck or any deck more than 30 inches above grade, with footing and final inspections. Small ground-level platforms sometimes do not, so check with your local building department first.
What is the cheapest way to build a deck?
A small ground-level pressure-treated deck, built DIY, is the cheapest route: roughly $2,500 to $5,500 for a 10 by 12 deck (planning estimate). Keep the shape rectangular, skip the railing where code allows, and build in the off-season if your builder offers a discount.
Bottom Line
Choose wood if budget and cash today matter most, and you plan to sell within 10 years. Choose composite if you are staying long-term, hate staining, or want the lowest lifetime upkeep. Either way, judge every quote on its line items: footings, ledger flashing, railing, and stairs, not its total. For the full exterior picture, read Roof Replacement Cost in 2026, then compare roof materials in Metal Roof Cost vs. Shingles and Asphalt Shingles vs. Metal Roof, and compare another exterior surface in Vinyl Siding vs. Fiber Cement. Ready for quotes? Get 3 quotes through our contact page and bring your deck measurements to the first conversation.
